How To Buy The Right Wood Stove or Insert

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When you go shopping for a wood stove you will have two main sources of information to help with your decision. First is the manufacturer's literature that gives performance specifications, and second is the advice you receive from the various stove dealers you visit.

Speaking of dealers, you might think a dealer just wants as much of your money as possible, and there is some truth to that of course, but the reality is more complex. The experienced dealer wants you to be so happy with your purchase that you will tell your friends so they will buy too. That means the good dealer will make every effort to meet your objectives with the right stove because no dealer wants you to come back complaining that the stove is to big, too small, or otherwise unsuitable. A good dealer can be your most valuable resource.

Material

The two main material options are cast iron or welded steel. There is no heating performance difference between them so the decision has to do with aesthetics and price. Graceful curves and artistic relief patterns make cast iron stoves pleasing to the eye. You'll pay a premium price, though, and cast stoves do need to be rebuilt every few years to seal the joints between panels so that air leakage will not allow the fire to burn out of control. Welded steel stoves are plainer, but cost a lot less.

In terms of durability, there is not much difference these days. Cast stoves used to have the edge because any part that failed from heat stress could be replaced. But now, having learned their lessons, the reputable steel stove makers have designed their products so that the highly stressed internal parts are replaceable. This is one area to watch out for when shopping.

A few premium stoves are built with soapstone panels in their sides, back and top. The manufacturers of soapstone stoves promote them on the basis that they hold heat for many hours so they level out the inevitable ups and downs in wood stove output. There is some truth to this, of course, but these stoves are also slow to heat up so there is a price to be paid for the heat that they store. Roughly the same effect can be created by building mass into the installation in the form of a stone or brick wall covering and hearth pad. The fact that a stove is built using soapstone is not necessarily a good reason to buy it, unless it also has the other features you want and you really like the way it looks.

Combustion Technology

The debate over catalytic versus non-catalytic combustion has been ongoing for over twenty years. Both approaches have proved effective, but there are performance differences. Catalytic combustion, in which smoky exhaust gases are passed through a catalyst-coated ceramic honeycomb buried deep inside the stove where they ignite and burn, tends to produce a long steady heat output. All catalytic stoves have a lever-operated catalyst bypass damper which is opened for starting and loading, and this tends to make the operation of these stoves a little more complicated. The catalytic element degrades over time and must be replaced, but its durability is largely in the hands of the stove user. With careful use, the catalyst can last more than six seasons, but if the stove is over-fired, trash is burned and maintenance is non-existent, the catalyst may fail in as little as two years.

As its name implies, non-catalytic combustion does not use a catalyst, but instead creates a good environment for combustion right in the firebox. Three key features create this environment: firebox insulation, a baffle to divert gas flow and pre-heated combustion air introduced through small holes all around the upper part of the firebox. 'Non-cats' tend to produce a somewhat peakier heat output curve, but are prized by their users for the arrestingly beautiful fire they create. Good conditions for combustion include high temperatures, so the baffle and some other internal parts will need replacement from time to time as they deteriorate with the heat.

So, which is the better stove, a cat or a non-cat? It would appear that the market is slowly turning in favor of non-cats as some manufacturers have actually switched in that direction, but still, some of the most popular high-end stoves continue to use catalytic combustion. Both options have their benefits and limitations, as well as legions of loyal users who swear that their (cat or non-cat) is far better than those silly (cats or non-cats). And both burn up to 90 percent cleaner than older conventional stoves.

Emissions

Back in the late 1980s the U.S. EPA established a mandatory smoke emission limit for catalytic wood stoves of 4.1 grams of smoke per hour and for non-cat stoves of 7.5 g/h. The difference in limits is to recognize that cats work great when new (as they are when tested) but the catalytic element degrades with use so by the time the catalyst is due for replacement, emissions are a lot higher than 7.5 g/h. Non-cat performance doesn't tend to degrade as much with use. As a result, you can assume that there is no real difference in the average smoke emissions of cats or non-cats.

Today, all wood stoves and fireplace inserts (and some factory-built fireplaces) sold in the U.S. must meet these limits*, and many are certified for emissions down in the 1 to 4 g/h range. The EPA certified emission rate is a reliable number that can be compared from one model to the next. Mind you, a one or two gram per hour difference in smoke emissions is not relevant to the user in the real world of every day home heating.

* Some of the cheapest wood stoves on the U.S. market are not EPA certified, but make it to market through a loophole designed to exempt fireplaces from the emission rules. The fireplace exemption says that, if an appliance is leaky enough to burn at least 11 pounds of wood per hour (5 kg/h) when its air control is turned down to the minimum, it doesn't need to be tested or meet the emission limits. A few stove manufacturers take advantage of the fireplace exemption loophole by building leaky (non-airtight, ungasketed) stoves and selling them cheap. The trouble is they don't heat worth a hoot because they are uncontrollable and they burn a lot of wood. These are stoves that perform like those sold 50 to 100 years ago.

In the old days people put key dampers in the flue pipe to slow down combustion, and now buyers of these cheap exempt stoves are forced to do the same. This, of course, undermines the objectives of the EPA regulation and makes a lot of smoke. You get what you pay for.

Efficiency

The far higher efficiency delivered by advanced, certified stoves is definitely relevant in day-to-day use. On average, the new stoves are about one-third more efficient than the old box, potbelly, or step stoves of yesteryear. That's one-third less cost if you buy firewood, or one-third less cutting, hauling and stacking if you cut your own. Although this higher efficiency is a by-product of mandatory emissions limits, it has made the EPA rules a winner for both the environment and stove users.

Unfortunately, none of the really useful performance ratings shown on stove brochures (like efficiency, heat output, heating capacity and burn time) are standardized and regulated, so they can't be trusted or compared one to the other.

For example, the EPA does not require stove efficiencies to be reported but for obscure bureaucratic reasons assigns default figures of 63 percent for non-cats and 72 percent for cats. Some manufacturers have paid for independent efficiency tests and show the resulting figures on their promotional brochures. But because efficiency test methods have not been standardized and regulated, you can't be sure the figures are based on the same tests and calculations. On the other hand it appears that all EPA certified stoves are over 60 percent efficient and some can deliver around 80 percent of the fuel's potential heat to the house. This is far better than the low-tech uncertified options, many of which are in the 50 percent range and lower. An overall efficiency higher than 80 percent is not desirable because the resulting low exhaust temperature means weak draft and the risk of water vapor condensation which damages the chimney lining.

Heat Output

Most manufacturers list a maximum heat output in British Thermal Units (BTUs), and for popular stoves this falls in the 25,000 to 80,000 BTU range. But this figure is misleading. First, the full output of a stove should not be used often because continuous high firing can do serious damage to the stove's innards. Second, the average medium-size house needs only 5,000 to 20,000 BTUs per hour of continuous heating power, even during cold weather. Some manufacturers use the heat output rate from EPA testing, which uses softwood fuel, and others use the results of their own tests using hardwood fuel which can produce a much higher peak output. Another way these figures can be misleading is that non-cats tend to produce a higher peak heat output, but this doesn't mean they'll produce more heat over an eight hour burn cycle, which is a more relevant performance indicator. The result is that you can't compare the heat output of stoves because the ratings are not standardized and can't be trusted.

Heating capacity

Stove makers always state how many square feet of space the unit will heat. Some of them wisely give generous ranges like 1000 to 2000 sq. ft. or suggest the maximum area the unit will heat. The reason for the big range and vague figures is that a particular stove might heat 2000 sq. ft. in central U.S., but only a 1000 sq. ft. house in central Canada due to the climate difference. Not only that, but an old house might have twice the heat loss of a new house of the same size in the same climate zone. Also, if your house is divided into many small rooms, you probably won't be able to move the heat around the rest of the house, so the square footage rating is useless to you. And finally, a stove burning softwood like spruce will put out much less heat per firebox load than it will burning a hardwood like maple. Obviously, heating capacity ratings based on square footage are unreliable.

In practical terms, considering all the variables, wood stoves come in only three sizes:
• small stoves for heating a large room or a seasonal cabin;
• medium for heating small- to medium-sized houses; and
• large stoves for heating somewhat larger or leakier houses.

Of course, all size considerations must take account of your house type, climate zone and standard fuel. Correct sizing of stoves for particular objectives and conditions is one area where the advice of an experienced wood stove dealer is particularly useful.

Burn Time

How long will a given stove burn on a single load of wood? The only reasonable answer is: It depends. Burn time depends on wood species and moisture content, and on how much heat is needed during the burn. Our experience is that a medium or large stove sized correctly based on all the issues discussed here will give a reliable overnight burn with enough coals remaining to kindle a fire in the morning. Stoves in the small category may or may not give an overnight burn, but they tend not to be used for whole-house primary heating.

One advantage of catalytic stoves is that the good ones can deliver a lower burn rate over a longer period than non-cats and yet still burn clean. But the disadvantage of these long burn times is that the door glass tends to get dirty at very low firing rates. In other words, a stove that has a claimed burn time of ten hours may not be better or more convenient to use than one that delivers an eight hour burn.

Log Length

Don't be mislead into thinking that a stove that can handle 20" firewood is really bigger or better than one that can take up to 18" logs. The standard firewood length for stoves is 16", mostly because it is the most practical length for handling. Any guy who claims it is easy to lift, stack and load 20" firewood is bigger and stronger than the norm. I am also aware that women in North America are serious users of wood stoves and I suspect that, on average, their wrist and forearm strength is closer to my own than to a burly logger's. On the other hand, knowing the maximum log length is useful because for convenient loading, the firebox should be about three inches bigger than your average piece of firewood.

There are many other features that you might wish to consider. These include whether the stove has an ash pan, a cooking surface, whether it can be operated open with a fire screen in place, and aesthetic matters like plated doors and trim, and color options. None of these affect heating performance but can influence your enjoyment of the stove.

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Valuble Info Fireplaces, Inserts, Wood burning stoves, and

Rockford Chimney Supply Tips and Resources

Wood burning fireplace inserts are historically created from materials like steel or cast iron. They actually have self-cleaning glass doors and a few provide a fan choice as a feature. Wood burning fireplace inserts are obtainable as kits. Each kit is identified through size of the fireplace so that you will be acquainted with what size of inserts to get. Wood burning fireplace inserts have the extra value of enhancing the decor of your living area with their magnificient crafted fronts and the flickering fire behind the glass front. The various sizes and shapes available permit you to choose the perfect choice that matches your fireplace size and will best save energy in the particular setting.

Wood burning fireplace inserts can heat your home much better. They’re placed within your fireplace, and they permit the hot air to flow into to a much larger area. Wood burning fireplace inserts offer you hours of pure warmth and enjoyment. They make your evening not purely snug but romantic as well! Wood burning fireplace inserts are generally heavy with a weight of not less than four hundred pounds and usually much more. These days, inserts have to be removed 1st prior to cleaning the chimney, that can be a chunk of a challenge because of its bulkiness.

Wood burning fireplace inserts must have a connector between the appliance outlet and the first section of the flue liner. This sends the smoke plus gases up plus out of the chimney more directly, minimizing flamable deposits which condense in the fireplace. Wood burning fireplace inserts are an choice for every one sorts plus sizes of fireplaces.

Wood-burning fireplace inserts add beauty to your living area while improving the heat efficiency of the fireplace. Inserts are usually made from an iron frame attached to a brass faceplate plus glass doors. Wood-burning fireside inserts are a kind of product which impresses buyers by giving them straightforward-to-install, eco-friendly plus economical supply of warmth. When put in properly, wood-burning fireplace inserts offer the whole house with a reliable supply of warmth while not having to burn off many of wood.

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A Simple List of Essential Chimney Products

Your chimney is crucial to making your fireplace safe and enjoyable. With a little effort and a few essential chimney products, you can make sure your chimney works safely and efficiently all season long.


Keep the Hot Stuff In and the Wet Stuff Out
A chimney cap is an essential part of your chimney. A properly installed chimney cap will keep sparks and embers from flying out of your chimney. A chimney cap will also keep rain from entering your chimney. Water that mixes with chimney residue can create acid slurry that will weaken the interior of your chimney.

Air: A Fire’s Best Friend
A poorly performing chimney can lead to smoke and harmful indoor air pollution. A ventilation van can increase the efficiency of your chimney, leading to safer, cleaner burning fires.

Shrug Off the Elements
Chimney flashing is a flexible metal shield placed around your chimney where it meets the roof. Chimney flashing is important to avoid leaks around your chimney. Flashing is available in kits or can be custom crafted at metal fabrication shops.

Keep Your Chimney Safe
Made of tile, concrete or metal, a chimney liner is crucial for keeping your chimney in safe working order. A chimney liner keeps smoke, heat and toxic gasses from entering your home. Flexible metal liners are available as replacement or retrofit items.

Avoid a Drafty Chimney
When not in use, a chimney should be closed with a damper to avoid drafts and heat loss. A top sealing tamper installed at the top of your chimney can provide a weatherproof barrier when you’re not burning a fire.

Clean Chimney Tools
Although your chimney should be professionally cleaned and inspected annually, cleaning it yourself is a great way to keep your chimney safe. Flue brushes can clean the inside of your chimney and are available in round, square or rectangular shapes. Some manufacturers also sell fire logs that break sticky creosote down and make it easier to sweep.

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WHY YOU SHOULD HAVE A CHIMNEY LINER

You may never of heard of a chimney liners never mind know what the uses of them are. If you have a chimney then they are an extremely useful and efficient way of keeping your chimney clean and safe.

Chimney liners keep out carbon monoxide and smoke, so stop these dangerous fumes from leaking into your house. They stop chimneys from overheating so stop possible chimney fires from happening. All chimneys at some time or another crack or break. Depending on what type of chimney you have depends on the suitability of particular chimney liners.

Old houses usually have masonry chimneys without flue liners or more recent houses may have clay tile liners, which over time can crack and tiles can break off.

The solution for most houses depending on the state of your chimney is to get a metal chimney liner. They last a long time, are easy to install and keep clean and are a cost effective way of keeping your chimney in a good condition. Most chimney liners are made of stainless steel . You can install them yourself if you wish in a relatively short space of time and fairly easily which is convenient and good on the pocket. If you were not confident about installing one by yourself then a reputable HANDYMAN in your area would be more than happy to do it for you. As it is an easy job for them to do it will only cost you a small fee and will save you a lot of money in the long term.

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2009 Winter Heating Tips From Rockford Chimney Supply

Rockford Chimney Supply
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Cold weather has finally descended on us, and fire departments are gearing up for what some in the fire service say could be a busy season. The heating season inevitably leads to problems — from chimney fires to malfunctioning furnaces that cause carbon monoxide buildup in the home. Rockford Chimney Supply President Brad White, said because it’s been so mild so far this winter, the fire season has yet to begin. But when it does, he said, many are expecting a jump in the number of calls for chimney and fireplace products, partly because of the downturn in the economy.

“Sometimes it’s a decision whether to eat or clean the chimney or maintenance the furnace,” White said. “Fire calls are way down from last year. We expect a difficult year when the cold weather does come in. Every winter we expect there will be heating system malfunctions. This season we expect more.”

In the two months after Thanksgiving last year, the U.S. Fire Administration reported one of the deadliest seasons in recent memory, with more than 150 residential fires nationwide that resulted in more than 200 deaths.Home heating equipment is among the top causes of fires and carbon monoxide poisonings.From 2003 through 2005, there was an annual average of 57,300 fires and 270 fire deaths associated with portable heaters, central heating systems and fireplaces and chimneys. There alsoare 68 deaths, on average, from carbon monoxide poisoning each year associated with home heating sources, the U.S. Fire Administration
reports.

Chimney fires, the burning of creosote clinging to the sides of a chimney’s liner, sometimes lead to house fires. Brad White, owner of Rockford Chimney Supply, recommends oversized caps for the top of the chimney to prevent water and animals from getting in the flue. A cap also works as a spark arrester. He said annual inspections can turn up everything from squirrels and birds to evidence of an unseen chimney fire. Because of their intense heat, White said chimney fires lead to cracked tile liners and other problems.“The tiles can’t withstand the sudden heat,” White said. “It can get up to 2,000 degrees.” In a fast-burning chimney fire, White said people have compared the sound to a freight train, jet engine or Mack truck.

White said "the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning is greater during the winter." Furnace malfunctions can lead to an increase in carbon monoxide in the home. Hundreds die and thousands of others suffer dizziness and nausea from the odorless gas that can be emitted from furnaces, gas kitchen ranges and kerosene space heaters if they are not properly ventilated. Signs of carbon monoxide poisoning include headaches, mental confusion and extreme tiredness. Whether it’s a wood stove, furnace or space heater, Rockford Chimney Supply recommends inspecting your systems and chimney's annually to alleviate any safety concerns. “Make sure the smoke and CO (carbon monoxide) detectors are up to snuff. It’s dollars versus life safety,” he said. “Most of the time oil companies have service departments that can at least take a look at the furnace.”

“White also recommends if your burning wood, you should especially be diligent an annual inspection,”. The amount of creosote buildup depends on how often a household burns and what type of wood is used. “Wet wood with higher moisture content leads to lower burning temperatures and more creosote. You want to burn good seasoned hardwood — oak, maple, ash. Stay away from things like pine and hemlock,” White said. After many years in the business, White said he finds people scrimp more on the structural issues — the bricks and mortar of a chimney. While it is important to have the liner looked at and cleaned, cracks in the brick or gaps in the mortar can lead to house fires.

Winter fire prevention Inspect each year of all fuel-burning home heating systems, including furnaces, boilers, fireplaces, wood stoves, water heaters, chimneys, flues and vents. Take precautions when using space heaters, fireplaces or other heating sources to help stay warm this winter.Install smoke alarms and carbon monoxide alarms in the home and check that the batteries are fresh and working.

Place space heaters on a level, hard and nonflammable surface (such as a ceramic tile floor), not on rugs or carpets or near bedding or drapes. Keep the heater at least 3 feet from bedding, drapes, furniture and other flammable materials. Keep children and pets away from space heaters.To prevent the risk of fire, never leave a space heater on when you go to sleep or place a space heater close to any sleeping person. Turn the heater off if you leave the area. Never use gasoline in a kerosene space heater. Even small amounts of gasoline mixed with kerosene can increase the risk of a fire.

Use a space heater that has been tested to the latest safety standards and certified by a nationally recognized testing laboratory. These heaters will have the most up-to-date safety features; older space heaters may not meet the newer safety standards. An unvented gas space heater that meets current safety standards will shut off if oxygen levels fall too low.Do not use portable propane space heaters indoors or in any confined space unless they are specifically designed for indoor use. Always follow the manufacturer’s directions for proper use.

Inspect flues and chimneys for leaks and blockage by creosote or debris.Open the fireplace damper before lighting a fire and keep it open until the ashes are cool. An open damper may help prevent buildup of poisonous gases inside the home.Store fireplace ashes in a fire-resistant container and cover it with a lid. Keep the container outdoors and away from combustibles. You need to consider a chimney liner stainless steel if your chimney is oversized.

Never use electric or gas stoves to heat the home. They are not intended for that purpose and can cause fires and carbon monoxide poisoning.

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